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Will your batteries survive the night?

The most common offshore connectivity failure isn't signal — it's a dead battery bank at 2 AM. Add your gear below and get the honest math: daily draw, battery bank size, and the solar to feed it.

Your gear — tick what you run, edit the numbers
Your daily budget
Daily draw
At 12V
Battery bank — lead-acid (50% usable)
Battery bank — LiFePO4 (80% usable)
Solar to replace it (~4 peak sun hours)

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How the math works

Each device: watts × hours per day = watt-hours. Add them up, divide by 12 for amp-hours on a 12V system. Lead-acid batteries only give you about half their rated capacity before voltage sag becomes a problem; LiFePO4 gives you about 80%. Solar: divide daily watt-hours by ~4 peak sun hours for the panel wattage that replaces a day's draw.

Defaults come from real-world draws: a Starlink standard dish runs about 75W (50–100W depending on weather and the heater), the flat high-performance dish around 110W, a cell booster about 12W, a failover router about 10W. Edit every number to match your actual gear — your boat, your math.

This is planning math, not an electrical design. Size the power first, the electronics second — and when in doubt, add margin.

Your next crossing, connected.

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